Hayakawa-cho, Akasawa

Summer 2005
A gorgeous old house in Akasawa. I love the fence.

Previously called "Old town Hayakawa," I just learned that this part of town is called Akasawa. I'm sure there were signs telling me that, but I have no idea how to read them. Anyway, to get to Akasawa you turn left just before the South Elementary School when entering Hayakawa, and follow one-lane road up a windy mountain path. Along the way, you pass numerous miniature waterfalls, a couple of which are pictured here. 2 km up the road you run into Akasawa.

I heard from one of the south elementary school teachers that there were some pretty old houses up there, so I decided to visit it. It was already about 4ish when I left, because I spent all morning at the kindergarden sports festival, then 30 minutes or so talking with one of the ladies who works in the lunch center, but who also gardens right below my apartment. Anyway, it was getting late so I started up.

The road is gorgeous, and has many many tiny waterfalls along the side. For some fairly sharp mountains, there sure is a lot of water running off. I mean, there were lots and lots of these mini-falls.

Anyway, I got to a little cluster of buildings that was about 2 km from the entrance, so I figured I had arrived at whatever destination was here. I started walking around, and the houses just took my breath away. There were cars parked, I could hear lawn mowers, there was laundry hanging, and there were many other signs of modern life. But the houses and aura just overwhelmed me. There was something so classical about them that I was just enthralled. All of the shoji, the carefully trimmed plants, the beautiful fences, the small signs near the doors, the flowing water for washing your hands along the walkways, the curving bonzai-like trees, the view of the mountains over the city.... Why it made me feel that way I have no idea but I loved it.

I stopped to chat with an old man along the way because I was admiring his trees. He explained about the mountain, Shichimenzan, and told me where you could go to find the trail to climb it. Apparently people used to treck through this part of Hayakawa on their way from Minobu-san (where the Kuonji temple is), and they would stay in Ryokans along the way. With the arrival of cars, the travelers stopped coming and the ryokans, still with their signs, turned into large houses.

After walking around some I wandered up the hill a little further before returning. On my way down, I noticed a small shop that had a few postcards and some wooden items for sale. I dropped in, yelling a gomen kudasai which sent a couple of mini-dogs ballistic. Eventually an old woman came, and we chatted for a minute. She brought out her son, and left me talking with him for a while. Then she brought me tea and sushi she had prepared that morning. We chatted for a bit, then the son's wife came out. We chatted together, and at one point she asked me if I liked Japanese food and if I cooked myself. I said I loved japanese food, but my cooking was terrible (all true). Note to self, don't do that. She brought me a bunch of inari sushi and regular sushi (well, veggie kinds) and vegetables that they'd made earlier and made me take them home. She also gave me 2 raw eggs... I don't know what they're for.

The lady, Yoda-san, also told me that there's a festival on the 18th at the top of Sichimenzan and invited me to join them for the climb and the festival afterwards. I'm totally in, so we exchanged phone numbers. Why is everyone here this nice? Also, how do I refuse presents? I seem to get into trouble when I talk about my cooking, but they always ask.

Anyway, I really enjoyed myself. I think I'm lonely, and it's much more fun visiting places when you chat with people. I do wish there were some people my age, though!

It hardly seems worth the effort, but all material here is copyright Thomas Williams 2005, All Rights Reserved and nothing at all on this site may be used without my express written permission.